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A personal journal

Traveler 08

The Sketcher

July 3, 2026

Losing to a banyan

Everyone else raised their phones today; I opened my sketchbook. There is a banyan on campus whose roots pour down like slow water, and I spent most of the afternoon losing an argument with it. Every time I thought I had the shape, it grew more complicated under my pencil.

At morning tea I drew the steamer baskets before we opened them, stacked up like little wooden moons. My har gow went cold while I was still shading the bamboo weave; one of the volunteers kept nudging the basket toward me like they were feeding a stray cat. Worth it — cold har gow is a fair price for getting the lines right.

Our teachers keep telling me to take at least a few photos, in case I miss something. But a photo takes one second and forgets you; a drawing takes an hour and remembers everything — the heat, the cicadas, the exact patience of the afternoon. I would rather have fewer pages that remember.

July 7, 2026

Twenty still minutes

We walked through Yongqingfang today, and the qilou arcades were made for people like me — every column holds still, every shadow stays put long enough to be drawn. I sat down on a step and filled three pages before the others even noticed I had stopped. The old streets don't rush you; they have been holding this pose for a hundred years.

Near a gate there was a security guard who stood so still that I asked, mostly with gestures, if I could draw him. He nodded once and did not move for twenty minutes — not for the heat, not for the mosquitoes, not even to glance at his phone. When I showed him the page he studied it for a long time, then gave me a thumbs up. It might be the best review I have ever received.

At night, by the Pearl River, I tried the Canton Tower. It changed colors faster than I could choose a pencil, so in my sketchbook it is just one slender line with the word "glowing" written next to it in three languages. Half the book is full now, and I keep counting the empty pages against the remaining days, not sure which I will run out of first.

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